How much does it cost to replace an EV charger?

From around £550 where the existing circuit and earthing are sound, up to £1,200 where the wiring, protective devices or mounting position also need bringing up to current standards.

My charger has stopped working. Is it worth repairing?

Sometimes. Tripped protection, a damaged tethered lead, a lost app pairing and corroded terminals are all cheap fixes. Failed contactors and dead communication boards on an unsupported unit usually are not, because parts are unobtainable.

Can I reuse the existing cable and circuit?

Usually yes, and that is what keeps the price down. It has to be tested first: cable size, protective device type and the earthing arrangement all have to suit the new unit.

Can a 3.6kW charger be upgraded to 7kW?

In most cases, provided the existing cable and consumer unit can carry it and the property's main fuse has headroom. It is checked at survey and it is one of the more worthwhile upgrades.

The manufacturer of my unit has gone out of business. What now?

Replace the head unit on the existing circuit. The wiring is not brand-specific, so the cost is the new charge point plus a short visit rather than a whole installation.

Can the charger be moved to a different wall?

Yes. It is priced as a new cable route plus making good at both ends, so the cost depends almost entirely on distance and whether anything has to be dug or drilled.

EV charger replacement and upgrades in Teesside

Swapping a failed or obsolete wallbox for a modern smart unit costs from around £550 on Teesside where the existing circuit and earthing are sound, rising to £850 and above where the cable, protective devices or mounting position also need changing. Most swaps are a two hour visit.

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Why so many Teesside chargers are being replaced

The first big wave of domestic charge points went onto driveways here in the early 2020s, when the home grant was widely available. Those units are now old enough that three things are going wrong at once. Hardware fails, usually contactors, communication boards or the internal RCD. Manufacturers disappear or drop support, leaving an app that no longer connects and scheduling that cannot talk to a modern tariff. And expectations have moved: a dumb unit that only switches on and off is a poor match for time-of-use pricing, and a 3.6kW unit is now simply slow.

Replacing is generally cheaper than the original job because the hard part is already done. The dedicated circuit, the cable route and often the mounting position can all be reused, so the visit is about removing the old unit, verifying the existing wiring is up to current standards, fitting the new one and recommissioning.

What a swap costs

Expect £550 to £850 where the existing circuit tests clean, the cable is the right size and the earthing arrangement is acceptable, with the charge point itself making up most of that. Where the old installation predates current requirements the price climbs towards a full installation, £850 to £1,200, because the circuit, protective device or earth electrode arrangement has to be brought up to standard at the same time. Moving the unit to a different wall is priced as new cable plus making good.

A blunt piece of advice: get the old unit assessed before assuming it is dead. Plenty of faults are a tripped protective device, a damaged tethered cable, a failed app pairing after a router change, or corroded terminals after a wet winter on the coast. A repair or a cable replacement is a fraction of a new unit, and an honest electrician will tell you which one you are looking at.

Upgrading rather than just replacing

If the box is coming off the wall anyway, it is the moment to fix the things that annoyed you. Common upgrades:

Tethered to untethered, or the reverse: a fixed lead is convenient and gets damaged; a socket is tidier and lets a second car with a different connector use the unit.
3.6kW to 7kW: worth it if the existing circuit allows, and it usually does, since a doubled charge rate transforms a short overnight window.
Longer lead: five metres reaches most parking positions, seven or eight metres solves awkward drives where the charging port is on the far side of the car.
Solar integration: units that divert surplus generation into the car rather than exporting it, covered on the solar and battery page.
Better protection: modern units with integral fault detection let the circuit be simplified and are far less prone to nuisance tripping.

Landlords, second-hand houses and orphaned units

Buying a Teesside house with a charger already fitted is common now, and the unit often comes with no paperwork, no app account and no idea who fitted it. Two things fix that: a check of the installation certificate, or if none exists an inspection and test of the circuit; and a factory reset with the account transferred into your name, which most manufacturers support once ownership is proven. Where the manufacturer no longer exists, a replacement head unit on the same circuit is the clean answer. Landlords replacing units between tenancies should keep the certification with the property file, since it belongs with the electrical records rather than with the outgoing tenant.

What to ask before agreeing a swap

Ask for the existing circuit to be tested and the results shown to you, so the new unit goes onto proven wiring. Ask whether the old charge point is being taken away and recycled. Ask what happens to the guarantee, since a new unit carries its own warranty but the reused cable does not. And ask for the paperwork to be reissued, because a minor works or installation certificate naming the new equipment is what an insurer or a future buyer will look for. If the underlying wiring turns out to be unsuitable, the job becomes a fresh home installation and should be priced as one rather than quietly absorbed. Get a competitive quote for replacing the charge point at your Teesside home using the form.